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RV Hookup Cable


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Boondocking is the primary use of this stealth van, yet a 15 amp RV hookup cable will be installed to connect the electrical system to the grid, when hookups are available.

Commercial campgrounds have never been my favorite places to stay, as I prefer the immersion that only nature can provide. But sometimes, when your black water tank fills up, fresh water is needed or your batteries run low, a campground visit may be required. Some form of access to the electrical system of the RV is necessary.

Fitting the socket
Fitting the socket with extension cord
In most RV’s that is accomplished with a 110V inlet, just like what I installed in my previous conversion.
One of the objectives of this van is its stealthy design. Any outward sign that identifies the van as an RV, should be avoided. I decided to replace the permanent inlet with a hidden 15 Amp power cord, located under the driver’s side door.
The power cord enters the vehicle through an existing hole at the bottom of the B-pillar and will be connected to the 12V RV setup at the Murphy bed location. The keep the exposed part of the cable out-of-view and securely attached to the underside of the frame, I use a female 15 Amp connector, permanently attached to the underside of the frame.

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As the work on the van progresses, the other end of the cable will be connected to a switch that leads to the charger/inverter. The switch selects the incoming power source: Shore power or power from the CCP. The latter can supply up to 180 Amps @ 12V while driving; a separate 1000W inverter connected to the CCP could fully charge a sizable Lithium battery bank within a couple of hours of driving.

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2 thoughts on “RV Hookup Cable”

  1. Hi, I have a van and I’m wondering if is possible to hookup up an electric hookup so I can run my air conditioning from a plug at a campsite?

    I’m talking about the AC that is in the van itself, I don’t have any auxilary ac unit. So I’d like to run the air conditioning while Im sleeping in the van, without having to keep the van running.

    Thanks!

    1. That would be a great solution for many of us, but unlikely to be achieved. I’m not a mechanic, but the A/C in a vehicle is thoroughly integrated and with today’s vehicles, there is little you can change in the electrical system.
      There are better and worse solutions for your problems, where the best probably still is the ceiling/roof RV air conditioner, used in many of today’s RV’s. Other solutions are the ‘swamp cooler’, portable cooler or window A/C, none really ideal, but all work on 110V external power.

      Van Williams

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