Mod: Adding Amps To The CCP

Mod: Ford Transit CCP Fuses

Some Ford Transit models come standard with dual batteries and some buy them as an option. In that case the Customer Connection Point on the pedestal of the driver’s seat is outfitted with three terminals, each able to handle a max. 60 Amp load, with a total of 180 Amps. If the vehicle only has one flooded battery, only one 60 Amp terminal is connected.

To get the same power load as in a dual battery setup, and use the alternator as a 12V power source, an upgrade kit is available from your local Ford dealer. This kit will be installed in this project.


What You’ll Learn:

  • How to install fuses in the CCP.
  • How to access the battery.

What You’ll Use:

  • Wrench & Sockets.

What You’ll Need:

  • 1 Motorcraft WPT-7471-BK2Z-14S411-A wiring kit.

Approximate Duration For This Project: 4 hr.


Considerations

The kit is affordable and fairly easy to install. It’s just a lot of work! It exposes how flimsy the battery setup is in a Ford Transit. An inconvenient location and too many parts of which most are made of cheap plastic. Replacing a battery or simply changing a blown fuse is a hassle.
The flooded battery has an overflow that empties through a hole in the floor and my CCP has two attachment points but only one nut to hold it.
If you are converting your van into an RV, this kit will let you maximize the power of your alternator.

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Customer Connection Point Fuses

Get your wrench and socket set and the Motorcraft WPT-7471-BK2Z-14S411-A wiring kit.

  • Slide the driver’s seat fully forward.
  • Remove the battery clamp and cover bolts.
  • Remove the wire and clips from the right side of the battery clamp.
  • Remove the battery clamp.
  • Remove the small plastic cover on the right side.
  • Remove the negative (-) terminal.
  • Open the clip at the front of the main cover, slide the cover towards you and pull it up and away.
  • Remove the drain tube.
  • Lift out the safety bar.
  • Turn the battery 90 degrees clockwise.
  • Open and remove the positive terminal cover.
  • Disconnect the positive (+) terminal.
  • Remove the battery.
  • Remove the foam separation at the back.
  • Remove the battery box.
  • Remove the right portion of the fuse box cover, by lifting the right side.
  • The left part of the cover is fastened with three clips at the top and three at the bottom.
  • On the left side of the pedestal, is the Customer Connection Point with only one 60 Amp fuse installed.
  • Now remove the top and bottom nut, that hold the fuse box against the back wall of the pedestal.
  • Remove the outer and inner cover of the CCP.
  • The CCP is attached to the pedestal with two nuts. Remove both.
  • With some effort, you can move the fuse box about half an inch to the right.
  • This enables you to squeeze the angled metal piece, with the bolt inserted, onto the CCP terminal.
  • The 60 Amp fuse goes on top and a nut on each terminal finishes the job.
  • Reinstall everything in reverse order.

Conclusion

The installation is rather simple, but it takes a couple of hours to take everything apart and to put it all back together again.

The Motorcraft fuse kit used during this project, was acquired from my local Ford dealer and the total cost was $7.01.


Other projects of this Van Conversion:



Disclaimer:
I’m just a DIY’er with a lot of common sense, but with some of the projects, I use some tools and materials, that require you to really know, what you’re doing. Always read the manual and consult an expert if you’re in doubt.

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4 thoughts on “Mod: Adding Amps To The CCP”

  1. If I wanted to charge my solar battery box (like Goal Zero) and run my ARB cooler, does this modification allow for 110V plug in to be used?

    I have the heavy duty alternator and dual batteries in my transit. Currently, I can charge the solar batter box via 12v in the dash and run the arb cooler via 12v in the dash.

    I guess what i am trying to ask is how much work is it to use the CCP as the source of power to plug in my battery box and my cooler – using 110 – instead of 12v.

    And is the benefit of running 110v to charge my two appliances while I drive greater than using the 12v source in the van.

    1. With a set of fuses (approx. $10) you can create a maximum 12V-180A (3 x 60 Amp) connection point, with he alternator running, otherwise it’s coming out of your car batteries (not a good thing).
      It depends on what you use it for. You start with 12V and if your solar battery box accepts 12V, you should not use 110V to convert twice.
      The 12V in the dash is 10Amp fused; at the CCP the max is 180Amps max. At 12V, if your solar battery box accepts substantial more than 10Amps, it would make sense.
      To do the CCP right, you should also add a on/off switch and a heavy-duty fuse for safety. Not really difficult, but still some work and not cheap either.

      My setup would be to use the higher Amps from the CCP to power an inverter that supply the load to a battery charger to charge Lithium batteries. This way the van’s 12V system is completely separated from the 12V house system and the batteries could be recharged within a couple of hours driving.

      Van Williams

  2. I have a seemingly simple question that I can’t find an answer to, maybe because it’s so obvious everyone knows it but me. Is the CCP connected to the starter battery (by way of the under seat fuse box?), or is the CCP connected directly to the alternator somehow? I’m thinking the first but just want confirmation that the CCP is battery fed and that you are getting alternator power passed through the battery when the van is turned on. Also, if that is true, it is why you need to use something that prevents whatever you have hooked up from draining the starter battery (like an isolator or the like).

    Your website is great and very helpful! Thanks!

    1. I like your enthusiasm and thank you for the comment!

      I’m not an expert at this, so keep that in mind. As I understand it and from what I’ve seen at the three 60amp connections (CCP) is that they are directly connected to the battery and the alternator charges the battery. As you suggested, you can use an isolator to prevent draining of the battery. Personally, I will keep the van’s battery completely separated from the RV batteries by connecting a separate inverter to the CCP which in turn connects to the RV battery charger. Using it that way, means that I would start the van, wait a short while for the car battery to recharge then start the inverter. In combination with Lithium RV batteries which don’t have a ‘float stage’, recharging could be done quickly while driving. And that’s just in an emergency, as the main 12V source will be 400w-550w of solar panels.
      There is possibly an even better way to charge the RV batteries by installing a second alternator which is only used in combination with the RV batteries, but such an alternator kit will cost you $1500-$2000.

      Hope that helps you a bit. You have a great day!

      Van Williams

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