Customer Connection Point

This page may contain affiliate links that I am compensated for at no cost to you. Please check out my privacy policy for full details, and thank you for supporting the site!

Some Ford Transit models come standard with dual batteries and some buy them as an option. In that case the Customer Connection Point on

the pedestal of the driver’s seat is outfitted with three terminals, each able to handle a max. 60 Amp load, with a total of 180 Amps. If the vehicle only has one flooded battery, only one 60 Amp terminal is connected.

To get the same power load as in a dual battery setup, and use the alternator as a 12V power source, an upgrade kit is available from your local Ford dealer.

Considerations

The kit is affordable and fairly easy to install. It’s just a lot of work! It exposes how flimsy the battery setup is in a Ford Transit. An inconvenient location and too many parts of which most are made of cheap plastic. Replacing a battery or simply changing a blown fuse is a hassle.

The flooded battery has an overflow that empties through a hole in the floor and my CCP has two attachment points but only one nut to hold it.
If you are converting your van into an RV, this kit will let you maximize the power of your alternator.

BUILD GUIDE UPDATE

Be the first to receive an update, when a new Project is added to this Build Guide. I also include a monthly overview of newly posted videos.

Customer Connection Point Installation

Optional – Read through and understand this entire project first

Get your wrench and socket set and the Motorcraft WPT-7471-BK2Z-14S411-A wiring kit.

Customer Connection Point Fuses:

  • Slide the driver’s seat fully forward.
  • Remove the battery clamp and cover bolts.
  • Remove the wire and clips from the right side of the battery clamp.
  • Remove the battery clamp.
  • Remove the small plastic cover on the right side.
  • Remove the negative (-) terminal.
  • Open the clip at the front of the main cover, slide the cover towards you and pull it up and away.
  • Remove the drain tube.
  • Lift out the safety bar.
  • Turn the battery 90 degrees clockwise.
  • Open and remove the positive terminal cover.
  • Disconnect the positive (+) terminal.
  • Remove the battery.
  • Remove the foam separation at the back.
  • Remove the battery box.
  • Remove the right portion of the fuse box cover, by lifting the right side.
  • The left part of the cover is fastened with three clips at the top and three at the bottom.
  • On the left side of the pedestal, is the Customer Connection Point with only one 60 Amp fuse installed.
  • Now remove the top and bottom nut, that hold the fuse box against the back wall of the pedestal.
  • Remove the outer and inner cover of the CCP.
  • The CCP is attached to the pedestal with two nuts. Remove both.
  • With some effort, you can move the fuse box about half an inch to the right.
  • This enables you to squeeze the angled metal piece, with the bolt inserted, onto the CCP terminal.
  • The 60 Amp fuse goes on top and a nut on each terminal finishes the job.
  • Reinstall everything in reverse order.

materials

  • 1 Ford Motorcraft WPT-7471-BK2Z-14S411-A wiring kit

tools

  • Wrench & Sockets

Conclusion

The installation is rather simple, but it takes a couple of hours to take everything apart and to put it all back together again.

This 2016 Ford Transit Motorcraft fuse kit used during this project, was acquired from my local Ford dealer and the total cost was $7.01.

QUESTIONS, SUBMISSIONS OR CORRECTIONS

The missing parts of the complete van conversion process are being added regularly to this Build Guide. If you want to suggest a specific build option for this guide, submit a content correction or have a general inquiry, send me an email.

Error: Contact form not found.

Disclaimer: Throughout this guide, all guidance, building techniques and other information are based on my own experiences of converting a cargo van into a Tiny House on wheels. This guide is only for informational purposes; always build according to local and national standards. Be aware that such a project is expensive, requires a substantial amount of broad knowledge of building techniques and involves more work hours than you can imagine. Besides of hitting a finger with a hammer, much more serious harm can be done when you work with 12V/120V electrical systems, propane installations, power tools, etc. Tapping into the vehicle’s own systems can also damage its functionality. Get professional help where needed; never take any risk!