Cabin Curtain

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Isolating the cabin prevents the heat accumulating through the large windshield into the living area of the RV. It also makes the A/C more efficient.

cabin-curtain

Another reason to install cab curtains, is to improve privacy especially at night. That is certainly one of the requirements for a stealthy van.

The type of fabric best suited for this purpose, is a black-out material. An additional inside lining, that is color-coordinated with the interior of the van will improve on that.

Cabin Curtain – Part 1
Cabin Curtain – Part 2

Let’s get started!

The curtains have to be sized with the passenger swivel seat in mind. That means, that they have to be long and wide enough to be draped over a turned-around seat and still keep the living area fully blacked-out.

I use two separate curtains to enable passage from and to the cabin and use Velcro to unify them and close the gaps at the walls.

Preferably, the cab curtain should created and installed later during the van conversion, but since I will be using the van on short trips early on, I decided to put them in right now and benefit from day one. As the bed has not been created yet and as its casing will cover part of the cabin, I will have to adjust the curtains (width) on a temporary basis.

An extra liner will be added to the curtain at a later date, to complement the interior design, as is the valance as part of the ceiling installation.

Tie-down is made from the curtain remnants and is a 6″ x 20″ (15cm x 50cm) piece of fabric.

A Murphy bed will be placed immediately behind the driver’s seat, with a two inch space in between, which holds the curtains when they’re not in use.

The entire project cost was $42.23 and it added 3.3lbs (1485gr) to the overall weight of the vehicle.

  • Track $15.95
  • Curtains $21.02
  • Drapery Hooks $2.10
  • Velcro $3.16

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Materials

Blackout Curtains

52″ x 72″
Black
Set of 2

Curtain track

Flexible Bendable Curved
8 Ft

Drapery Hook Pins

58PCS
1.2 Inch SS
Silver

Velcro

16 Sets
1″ x 4′
Double-Sided Adhesive Strip

Painter’s tape

3pk
1″
60yd

Tools

DeWalt Drill

8.0-Amp
3/8-Inch
Corded
Variable Speed Trigger

Drill Bit Set

13 Pcs
1/16″-1/4″
Hex Shank
High Speed Steel

Extension Cord

25 Ft
3-Outlet Power Strip
Double Insulated
Grounded
16 Gauge
UL Listed

Metal Hacksaw

12″ Blade
Wing Nut Tension Control

Cabin Curtain Installation

Optional – Read through and understand this entire project first

Gather all the tools and materials before proceeding. Regularly fit the track and the curtains, to avoid costly mistakes.

Curtain Track:

  1. The curtains and future valance will cover and hide the edge, where cabin ceiling meets the living area.
  2. The track is secured against the metal cross bow brace, in between both black foam hubs (that contain the side curtain airbag mechanisms).
  3. Install the track at a 10 degree angle to compensate for the angle of the cross bow brace.
  4. To save on weight, remove any unnecessary parts from the track.
  5. Adjust the length and angle of the track.
  6. Stick some painter’s tape on the cross bow brace, where both ends of the track touch the metal. Hold the track in place and use a pencil to mark the location of the screw holes.
  7. Drill and fit the track.
  8. Paint the exposed metal of the holes to avoid future rust issues.
  9. To avoid any squeaking where metal meets metal, add a sturdy piece of cloth or rubber.
  10. Then use stainless steel screws to attach the track.

Curtain Hem:

  1. To allow movement between the cabin and the living quarters, the curtain will consist of two parts.
  2. Both curtains need to be made shorter. To retain the same look, measure the height of the current hem. In my case three inches.
  3. Calculate the desired length of the curtain and add three inches for the new hem, plus half an inch for a tuck-under fold.
  4. Now cut the fabric.
  5. Start forming the tuck-under fold; use a steam iron to set the fold.
  6. Fold again at three inches and use pins to secure it. Then set the fold with an iron.
  7. Choose a needled and similar colored thread.
  8. With the hem pinned at the tuck-under fold, sew the hem. You can do that by hand, but a sewing machine is much faster and gives a cleaner look.

Curtain Pleats:

In this narrow space, you’ll likely have four pleats, three spaces in between, an overlap on one side and a return on the other.

  1. My calculations resulted in four inch wide pleats, four inch wide spaces in between, a one and three inch overlap and a two inch return. Place a pin at each location. Allow for enough overlap where the two curtains meet.
  2. Fold both ends of the pleat together; remove both pins and replace by a single pin.
  3. Sew each pleat along its length.
  4. Optionally you can create a pinched pleat. By folding the pleat into itself.
  5. Insert drapery hooks along the seam at the back of the pleat and one at each end. Adjust the number of hooks where the meet the walls in the vehicle.

Curtain Tie-Down:

  1. Use a tailoring rule to measure the length of the tie-down.
  2. Use one of the previous remnants to cut out the fabric for the tie-down.
  3. Fold it inside out lengthwise and create a fold.
  4. Sew the three open sides together, leaving one corner open.
  5. The turn the sleeve inside out.
  6. Push out the corners with a spatula or letter opener.
  7. Sew the remaining corner shut.

The final step is adding Velcro to the overlapping sides of the curtain and to the sides. Cut one inch sized pieces, remove their backing and stick them to the fabric and to the walls at reasonable distances.
You may, optionally, also sew them to the fabric, so they better withstand the sometimes high temperatures inside the vehicle.

The fabric will be forward facing, with another lining added to complement the interior design. Both curtains slide behind the Murphy bed when stored.

materials

  • Curtain track: ~40” long (~1m)
  • Curtains (2):
    • Total width 95”/110“ (241/280cm)
    • Length ~68“ (173cm)
  • Drapery hooks
  • Velcro: 20“L x 1“W (50cm L x 2.5cm W)
  • Stainless Steel screws
  • Small bolts & nuts
  • Painter’s tape

tools

  • Hack saw
  • Electric drill
  • Drill bit
  • Phillips screw driver
  • Scissors
  • Pins, needle & thread
  • Steam iron
  • Optional:
    • Sewing machine
    • Extension cord

Conclusion

It was a lot of work, mostly because I did not have the opportunity to use a sewing machine. But with a little patience, anybody can do this.

All materials where acquired locally and the total cost was about $40.00.

QUESTIONS, SUBMISSIONS OR CORRECTIONS

The missing parts of the complete van conversion process are being added regularly to this Build Guide. If you want to suggest a specific build option for this guide, submit a content correction or have a general inquiry, send me an email.

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Disclaimer: Throughout this guide, all guidance, building techniques and other information are based on my own experiences of converting a cargo van into a Tiny House on wheels. This guide is only for informational purposes; always build according to local and national standards. Be aware that such a project is expensive, requires a substantial amount of broad knowledge of building techniques and involves more work hours than you can imagine. Besides of hitting a finger with a hammer, much more serious harm can be done when you work with 12V/120V electrical systems, propane installations, power tools, etc. Tapping into the vehicle’s own systems can also damage its functionality. Get professional help where needed; never take any risk!