It was time to add some insulation to the ceiling of the van, now that with the Murphy bed installation, access to the ceiling is closing up.
I already made the decision to use primarily Poly-Iso and Denim insulation and started to fill the ceiling cross-members with Denim. The cross-members allow for approximately 1-1/2 inch insulation, when you follow the curvature of the roof. Continue reading RV Ceiling Insulation→
It was time to make the final fit of the wall panel, that sits behind the Murphy Bed and that forms the background of a closet and side of the rear kitchen.
The length of the 8′ x 4′ (244cm x 122cm) plywood panel, is just shy of what’s needed to cover the rear window, but that is solved by extending the window support. The cut-outs for the ceiling cross beams fit tightly and the top corner, behind the driver’s seat, fits snuggly around the side airbag location. Continue reading Wall Panel Issues→
The wall panel on the driver’s side is partially hidden by the Murphy Bed, a closet and part of the kitchen. The main rear side window will be permanently hidden, while the front side window will be available when the bed is in use. The smaller rear side window offers exterior views from the rear kitchen.
The wall panels are temporarily installed, to allow for the fitting of all the components. Insulation and necessary cabling will be added before final installation.
Two types of fasteners will hold it all together. A plusnut will keep the structural parts securely connected to the metal walls. They can hold the load of the bed, cabinets and content in place. Ordinary stainless steel rivets offer a secondary attachment method. Some of the visible parts of the paneling will also be covered with Formica. Continue reading Wall Panel – Part One→
Laying a sub-floor in an RV consists of many individual steps. After removing the tie-downs, insulating the wheel wells, creating plywood templates, cutting and gluing the strips of Poly-Iso to the floor, I’m now completing the insulation by filling the voids with a spray foam application.
Although it is a closed-cell, waterproof foam, after cutting off the excess, what remains is susceptible to moisture, but still adds insulation and some structural cohesion to the floor.
As always, I have detailed every step on the Project’s Page, and added lots of pictures and a video.
Every RV should have Insulation and gluing it is the best way to keep it in place. As part of the Insulated Floor Project, I just finished gluing all the individual pieces of Poly-Iso insulation board between the floor ribs of the Ford Transit floor.
You can read about all the details, and view all the photos and videos on the project page. When the entire floor project has finished, the complete guide will be made available for download.
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Types and amounts of insulation have always been a controversial subject amongst us DIY’ers and in all probability there is not one right solution.
For me affordability, R-value and ease of installation are primary objectives, but as the interior height in my medium high roof van is limited, the amount of insulation material that I can put under the sub-floor is minimal. Continue reading Insulate Your RV Floor – Part Three→
Another last-minute task. This morning I sprayed the stainless steel bolts, that hold the sub-floor in its place, with some undercoating, to prevent future rust. In the coming weeks I’ll be posting all the details and videos. You can find the project at Mod: Insulated Floor.