Mahogany Countertop

This Mahogany countertop is meant for the two lower cabinets closest to the sliding door.

Made out of 8ft long, 6in wide and 2in thick raw lumber, I first cut it to the four feet length, needed for these cabinets. The next step is to joint the narrow and wide sides at a 90° angle.

I continue by slicing the board into two on the table saw, by raising the blade by increments on both sides. With this 6 inch wide board, I will fail to cut all the way through, but the last 1/2 inch is done with a handsaw.

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Van Ceiling Panel – Part IV

In the previous video I was unsuccessful in attaching the ceiling panel with the 3M Dual Lock, velcro-type fastener. Today I have a different approach and use the van’s own hydraulic jack with an extension pole, to force the Dual Lock strips together.


It is a slow process, where I follow each of the two ceiling cross members from side to side and apply force to the panel where the strips of Dual Lock meet.

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Van Ceiling Panel – Part III

I continue where I left off in the previous article Van Ceiling Panel Part II. As a reminder, I use an automotive tweed protected against daily wear and UV, very similar in color and texture as the front seats of the van.

Before I can install the ceiling panel, I still have to finish and attach this black foam block above the sliding door, as well as a small cabinet that houses two switches and the gas heater control knob and a top cabinet.

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Van Ceiling Panel – Part II

I continue where I left off in the previous article Van Ceiling Panel Part I. As a reminder, I use an automotive tweed protected against daily wear and UV, very similar in color and texture as the front seats of the van.

In this video, I start by gluing the edges of the fabric to the plywood panel and cut the holes in the fabric, where the puck lights will come and glue the fabric there too. After I spray the glue, the 3M 77 will dry to a tacky feel within a few minutes; then you can finish be applying the tweed.

With the glue is dry to the touch, I pull up the fabric for a sharp edge and then fold it over onto the surface of the panel. Finish with a few strokes of a J-Roller. Try to avoid too much fabric at the outside corners, otherwise the thickness will become obvious.

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Van Ceiling Panel – Part I

Much of the ceiling has been covered by 1in – 1-1/2in insulation and it’s time to cover it up.

I plan to use a 4′ x 8′ (~120cm x ~240cm) sheet of 3/16″ (~5mm) thick plywood covered with an automotive tweed fabric, which I also use on some of the walls and around the windows of the van. On some parts, the sheet is trimmed to fit between the cabinets; other parts are the full 48″ (~120cm) wide. That means, I have to use some narrow filler boards to span the entire ceiling. These boards will also support the edges of the panel.

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Webasto Gas Heater – Part 4

I continue the installation of the Webasto Gas Heater by removing the passenger seat and pedestal. The hydraulic car jack that is stored under the seat will be moved to another location. To achieve a good seal between the heater and the floor, I install a separate base plate and seal it with some silicone. Then drill the holes for the heater. Finally the heater is inserted in the holes of the floor and attached with four bolts.

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Final Insulation & Closet

In the process of finishing up the passenger side of the interior, I need to insulate the walls. Before I do that, I pulled the last wiring through the wall cavities.

The wall insulation consists of rigid Poly-Iso, separated about 0.5 inch from the skin of the vehicle with a few dots of spray foam, with the Poly-Iso pressed into it. This void acts, both as a barrier and a way to drain any condensation, without wetting the insulation.

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