This Mahogany countertop is meant for the two lower cabinets closest to the sliding door.
Made out of 8ft long, 6in wide and 2in thick raw lumber, I first cut it to the four feet length, needed for these cabinets. The next step is to joint the narrow and wide sides at a 90° angle.
I continue by slicing the board into two on the table saw, by raising the blade by increments on both sides. With this 6 inch wide board, I will fail to cut all the way through, but the last 1/2 inch is done with a handsaw.
In the previous video I was unsuccessful in attaching the ceiling panel with the 3M Dual Lock, velcro-type fastener. Today I have a different approach and use the van’s own hydraulic jack with an extension pole, to force the Dual Lock strips together.
It is a slow process, where I follow each of the two ceiling cross members from side to side and apply force to the panel where the strips of Dual Lock meet.
I continue where I left off in the previous article Van Ceiling Panel Part II. As a reminder, I use an automotive tweed protected against daily wear and UV, very similar in color and texture as the front seats of the van.
Before I can install the ceiling panel, I still have to finish and attach this black foam block above the sliding door, as well as a small cabinet that houses two switches and the gas heater control knob and a top cabinet.
I continue where I left off in the previous article Van Ceiling Panel Part I. As a reminder, I use an automotive tweed protected against daily wear and UV, very similar in color and texture as the front seats of the van.
In this video, I start by gluing the edges of the fabric to the plywood panel and cut the holes in the fabric, where the puck lights will come and glue the fabric there too. After I spray the glue, the 3M 77 will dry to a tacky feel within a few minutes; then you can finish be applying the tweed.
With the glue is dry to the touch, I pull up the fabric for a sharp edge and then fold it over onto the surface of the panel. Finish with a few strokes of a J-Roller. Try to avoid too much fabric at the outside corners, otherwise the thickness will become obvious.
Much of the ceiling has been covered by 1in – 1-1/2in insulation and it’s time to cover it up.
I plan to use a 4′ x 8′ (~120cm x ~240cm) sheet of 3/16″ (~5mm) thick plywood covered with an automotive tweed fabric, which I also use on some of the walls and around the windows of the van. On some parts, the sheet is trimmed to fit between the cabinets; other parts are the full 48″ (~120cm) wide. That means, I have to use some narrow filler boards to span the entire ceiling. These boards will also support the edges of the panel.
Still have a small piece of window, next to the storage closet that needs to be finished. I’ll install a window frame/sill made from Hard Maple and add a plywood cover around it. Later I will use an automotive tweed to finish it. The corners of the frame are made differently than those of the window at the Murphy Bed , but give a similar result.
I continue the installation of the Webasto Gas Heater by removing the passenger seat and pedestal. The hydraulic car jack that is stored under the seat will be moved to another location. To achieve a good seal between the heater and the floor, I install a separate base plate and seal it with some silicone. Then drill the holes for the heater. Finally the heater is inserted in the holes of the floor and attached with four bolts.
In the process of finishing up the passenger side of the interior, I need to insulate the walls. Before I do that, I pulled the last wiring through the wall cavities.
The wall insulation consists of rigid Poly-Iso, separated about 0.5 inch from the skin of the vehicle with a few dots of spray foam, with the Poly-Iso pressed into it. This void acts, both as a barrier and a way to drain any condensation, without wetting the insulation.
I fill-in most of the storage boxes in the ‘garage’ of my van. They are all open boxes with inter-locking bottoms, except for the top box, which receives a top lid. This Formica-finished top lid has three functions: as a top lid of course, as an extension of the kitchen countertop and as a worktop placed on a imperfect picnic table.
After previously installing the fuel pump, I continue with the fuel (and power) line between the pump and the location where the heater penetrates the van floor.
For extra security, I use a wireloom around the power wire and use a wider fuel line aorund the tiny Webasto fuel line.
